My country "Tibet" a hell on Earth

Sunday, January 16, 2011

达兰萨拉的电话亭:QQ“哭哭

文/端云南杰

一间达兰萨拉的电话亭内,印度老板和一对想往家乡打电话的藏人夫妇、还有一个小女孩挤在一起,一遍又一遍地核对着要拨的电话号码。老板用印度语和英语,加上一点很蹩脚的藏语,喊着、叫着;那一家藏人也同样用藏语夹杂着非常生硬的英语和印度语,叫着、喊着。经过几番较量后,仍然没能弄清楚电话号码。因为话费贵,老板怕藏人们拨错号码而执意要自己拨,可这么僵下去又不是办法,就在小女孩准备求助于纸笔时,老板急了,冷不丁从嘴里蹦出一句:“洞洞八六……"隐约可以听出点四川口音,竟然还是大陆专用的数字军语。小女孩格格地笑了起来,然后用中文讲出了一串号码,老板神气十足地重复了一遍后,终于替他们拨通了电话,紧接着飞也似的冲到计费器前坐下,开始目不转睛的盯着小屏幕。

这是几年前的一幕,从西藏来的难民是达兰萨拉所有电话亭的常客,当时从印度往藏地打直通长途电话一分钟就要三十多卢比,流亡藏人们逢年过节,遇到红事白事时,给家乡的亲朋好友报个平安或是几句问候,虽然很奢侈,但仍是必作不可的事情。印度老板们跟流亡藏人一来二往,多多少少都会几句简单藏语,可三区的藏语腔调不同,这位印度老板竟然干脆从藏人那里学来了带点“川味"的中文数字,真是让人哭笑不得。

如今电话费已经慢慢降成两卢比一分钟,藏人们更是三天两头往电话亭跑。这边的网咖总会附设一个小电话亭,我上网时每遇到同胞在旁边给家乡打电话,都会被他们的表情和音调所吸引,饶有兴趣地观察他们的一举一动。看到他们也许是听到什么恶耗而呜呜咽咽时,我跟着揪心;看到他们也许是因为听到什么开心的事而放声大笑,我的嘴也不自觉的咧开。从牧区或山区逃出的藏人大大咧咧,毫不忌讳地向着电话那一头用高原特有的豪爽嗓门吼着:“啊?什么?喔!不用担心,达赖喇嘛尊者身体好着呢,今年三‧一0你们那边示威了吗?……"让人在旁边听得直冒冷汗。而那些讲话细声细语的一看就是从藏区城镇逃来的,小心谨慎地用“他"、“那个"来代替各种敏感词,大家何需多说,彼此心照不宣。小电话亭和网咖间只有一层玻璃,根本没有隔音效果,他们的哭声笑声响彻每一个正在上网的人的耳际,但没人会表示不满,谁又忍心呢?

有一段时间,一进达兰萨拉的网咖,老板只要看出你是藏人,马上会上前介绍哪台机子有“哭哭",我是很久以后才弄明白他们是在指腾讯的“QQ"。原来有新逃来的藏人在网咖自己下载安装“哭哭",印度老板们看到有点商机,便让他们多安装几套,那一阵子的生意好不红火。藏人们不但能听到家乡亲人的声音,还能看到他们的样子,每次视讯通话前都要做足准备,先约好时间,让亲朋好友从山区牧区下来到有网咖的县城上,找个会上网的藏人帮忙,然后便在计算机这头和那头各挤起一堆人开唠,其中有些老人流亡印度五十多年,半个世纪未跟家人见过面,更少不了一番“哭哭"笑笑。

不少离家很久的藏人也称它“哭哭",我最终还是没有纠正他们的发音!“哭哭"也好,“QQ"也罢,或是拨打“洞洞八六",在团聚无望的此刻,也唯有这样才能让分隔两地的同胞们互吐辛酸,分担忧苦,彼此打气加油,坚持到藏人重获自由,与亲人相聚的那一天。

2 comments:

  1. I saw this article on Woesar la blog. I read it and I read it again and few minutes later Ii read it again and finally I just site on office chair closed door and put me through all the sad, pain and horrible memories in exile to recall.

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  2. Hello Woeser la
    Thanks for post this article. It really led me back to 20 years ago when I first came to India as refugee without any body's support and direction. Unfortunately, beside Chinese and Nepalese mistreatments, we( 24 of us) went through another unexpected deceitful treats from few Tibetan women they were born in exile on Nepal boarder way to India to see H.H Dalai Lama. I will never ever forget this and we came to Dharamsala and we reported to Tibetan reception but who cares our feelings.

    From Kathmandu to India our bus was stopped 5 times, Every single check points want money because there were so much over load products that these women bought from Kathmandu to do business in India. Every time police stopped bus they came to us collect 200Rp to 300Rp money because we don't speak anything. On last check point we refused to pay ( actually we don't have money) they kept us for two days and one night at same spot without food and drink.

    They have money eat and drink but separated us and treated us like nothing.

    Finally, we met a Tibetan name Lodga ( he came to exile 5 years before us and he also learnt some English in Suja school in India, and he was way to Nepal). He asked police why they kept us. that is why we found out reason they stopped the bus.

    Polices thought those products were belong to us because these women asked us to help them to hold their products in bus because most of them are Chinese thermometry , shoes and Jean and knives.

    At that point we were so pissed out and angry and we threw everything out of bus and gave to police and Lodga helped us told truth to police.

    These women have no choice and finally pay some money to police ( we don't know how much) and they let us go.

    That was such unwelcoming experience we have gone through from Tibetans born in India and grew up with education "others before oneself".

    Disappointed and sad and that experience told me " don't trust people born in India".

    Unfortunately and coincidently I actually met one of woman on a birthday party in my Friend house New Jersey. She was shameful and she couldn't look at me. I wrote about my experience to met her on birthday party.(Jamyoung Norbu's blog few months ago as comment on new comer see detail there)

    I really felt in my heart how much new comers are going through without family and true friends around to relay on. this is just an experience of phone call and there thousands of ups and down in dairy life. who should they ask for help? who should they trust?
    much more......

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